The designer, based in Helsinki, initially collected stained undergarments from friends and later sourced them from a Facebook group. The garments were cleaned and used to create a collection that explores societal stigmas around stains. The project received positive responses, with models finding the garments sexy. The designer plans to continue this theme, receiving a grant to further explore sustainability. The conversation also touched on the broader implications of fashion sustainability and the challenges of disposing of stained clothing.
What was the inspiration behind this collection?
it's already, like, a couple of years ago when I started the whole thing, and I have now already, like a new collection out of the same concept. And yeah, but my interest, interest for the collection, started, like in the very beginning. I was interested in wedding gowns and the sensitivity of the colour white, and all the symbols, what includes for the weddings and the bridal gowns. And because the bridal gowns are normally like, used only once, and that's how I started to [be] interested in also the stains. I don't know like, how all that thinking process went, but like some like that, we had also this, like a master course at school, like about the sustainability, and also somehow that how I interested in stains in clothing, and I started to speak with my professor, professor about that, and thinking about that it could be my theme in my thesis. And she was very interested and in that it's gonna be my topic. And then I started to, like, actually interview people about stains in clothing, and like, how they feel about like one day when they got the stain in clothing, and when they are ready to throw away their clothing and then very quickly, I found out, like those, like a very shameful stain.
Yeah, and because at the very first I was like saying myself that I'm not interested in any kind of like fluids, like pee or poo or blood, I was like, more interested in everyday stains in clothing, and when people are ready to throw away their clothes because of the stain. So that was the very beginning of my interview, and I didn't have any expectations of the collection or what it's gonna be, but I also wanted to collect those kind of like clothes, what people are ready to throw away and then use them as a starting point to create a collection. But then, like very quickly, when I was talking with my female friends, I find out that, like most shameful stains are in underpants. Of course, I think like, we all might know that, but like, and those are this kind of, like a hidden stain, what you don't want to show anyone else. And then I was just like, okay, this is to say, like, concept that I need to use it, and because also, like, one of my, like favourite garments of clothes are underwear. So, it was like a brilliant start to make a collection. And because I use the underpants as, like a visual material, but also because of the stain. So, it like those kinds of garments gave me a colour palette, and, like the shape of the clothing and all this like aesthetic for my collection.
How did you like collect the garments, underwear? Did you find people were a bit uncomfortable when you reached out and asked?
yeah, definitely, like, people were at first, like, well, like, a very common friends were, like, just giving, gave me their like, stained undergarments, like, without casting, because they were just wanted to support my project. But then, like, when I, like, I only got few, and then I recognized that I need a lot, lot of them, that I can do a collection out of those. So, yeah, but then, then, like, people really understood, like, what I'm doing. But it started from the friends and nowadays, like, I made a new collection last year, and I use the same concept and use the undergarments on that. So, I wrote on a Facebook group in Finland, there is this kind of like, where you can sell your old clothing. So, I put the message there that, like, I'm looking for used under garments for my future collection, and I sent also some pictures on there, like, what I have made out of those. So, people were actually very excited of what I'm doing. And, yeah, that's how it was possible to create, again,
What was the kind of process like? I mean, obviously, taking people's undergarments, did you clean them before, or what was that kind of process before you then use them in your collection?
I wash them at like 60 or 90 degrees, that they are totally, like, clean. But of course, the stains gonna stay there if there is some, and that was like, because I think, like, my collection is that kind of that you might not recognize, that with kind of garments it's made. And when you notice that then, then it's more, maybe exciting or there are also people who find it like disgusting, that when they find out, like, what kind of garments my dresses are made of, or what kind of fabrics they are. They cannot understand, like, why I made this, and maybe it's the funniest part of that situation.
How did the models feel wearing the garments? Were they excited?
Well, I think they've been, like, very supportive, like, even when they didn't know what they going to wear. I think, like, couple of models just felt sexy. Like, super sexy, because also the fifth of them final dresses are. Like, very sensual and like, they fit in very well. So, they honestly felt super sexual, or sexy, sexy, maybe on those garments. And I have heard that like, also, like many other persons who have where my undergarment.
So, you did the first one a couple years ago, and you've done another one since then. How was the response this time different to the first time? And do you think you've changed the way you've done the next one?
I was also more brave to doing like, because I was also a bit shy to ask people to donate their pieces of undergarments for me, because there is a lot of stigma, stigma of that. So, I think because my attitude was more brave, let's say, so people also, their response was also very, like, positive, like, even like, like, yeah. Like, they took it very well. But like, when, when I came to pick up those, like, garments from the people around Helsinki, some of the people were, like, bit concerned about, like, yeah, like, what is this situation actually? Now, I started to think, like, why I'm donating my underpants for you.
It's so clear that you know you're trying to change that narrative of the shaming culture with undergarments. But then the other side of that is that there is a kind of online sphere where people do sell their undergarments for money, and that kind of very hyper sexualized view of undergarments. So how is that for you, with your brand identity, trying to navigate that you have both these different sides to it?
This is exactly like what I've been thinking. Like, is this a bit like too much? Or am I doing like a right thing, or is it okay to use like a used undergarments in my creations? But then I have found it like if it's like any other kind of stain than, like a period stain, do people still mind actually? Because, like, I think, like in our society, like stains are still like, whatever kind of stains are very stigmatic, like, I think, Like, we have used so clean and pure, like an environment, and what's coming to clothes that it's so easy to get and, if like, and it's so easy to buy a new one that before getting that, actually, we have, like, a lot of already, and what we should do for that, I just spent a bit more deeply on that, like, what, what we're gonna do for the garments, what are already, like, thrown away or stained or something. But like, if you're thinking about, like, white t shirts, what I also use, but like, if there is a coffee stain, is it a less stigmatic than, like, some like, a bleached thing in the under part. And it's also something that I would like to do. To go more deeply in the future and think about like more deeply, like, what is dirt and what is the dirty person, and what kind of like ideas we have about the dirty persons in this society, and also like dirty in different kind of like situations, like dirty, sexy or dirty, dirt, you know, by just creating this and things out of my mind. Yeah,
Since doing these collections, how do you feel now with the idea that people stay in a garment and then immediately throw them away?
I was honestly very surprised at people really doing that, like when I interviewed people like, people like, they're ready to really throw away their like clothes, like, ready to throw away their clothes when it gets stained. So it was actually kind of surprising for me, like, oh, they feel about like, about that, because then, if you're thinking about, like, fashion industries or big luxury fashion houses, and we are ready to buy new clothes, what looks like they are, like, used under so it's a bit like a paradoxical situation, in my opinion.
I think it's really interesting what you've done, because men's wear, and when it comes to men's undergarments, are way more stained than women. Yeah, they don't carry the shame. They're not made to feel shameful about,
I think, like, it becomes from the history, like, what we have thought about, like periods and like female persons who have under the periods, like that. We have kept them like that they are dirty during their menstruations. So, I think, like, it's just history. What carries that stigma? Yeah? And like, men are just like, I don't know. It's just like, yeah, yeah. It's just like everything is possible for them.
So, is this a project you want to keep continuing? Or what's what the next stages for you in designing in your career and things?
Yeah, definitely want to continue with that. And I'm very lucky at the moment, like, I got this kind of, like a grant from Finland so I can work for this year and really, like I continue my artistic process with these kind of concepts and going more go more deeply on that, and think about more about the sustainability and even, even more than just the stained garments. But they're definitely going to continue with the undergarments in the different levels, with the stains and without the stains. And maybe think about the undergarment line, like thinking about that small production of that. But definitely also want to keep, like, the stained undergarments and T shirts and whatever in my collections in the future as well, like, even if I'm going to do totally new pieces out of the new materials, I would love to keep there some kind of stuff. So that's
Do you think that in Finland and being in Helsinki, that there's a difference in attitude towards the stained undergarment? Or is that something that you think is different in other countries?
maybe that I don't have that much pressure is like, because Finland is such a small country, and the fashion scene here, like, well, we have many talented persons who's come from Finland in other university, but, like, the facility in Finland is very, very small. And I don't honestly know how I decided to stay in Finland, but I have thought that, like now, my place is here, and there is still space for my designs, because the fashion scene is so small. And of course, I would like to also think more white, and like thinking about where to show my collections next, and maybe another country is done in Finland because it, we need more visibility to like make, make this like bigger business that I can really live with that what I do, but like, it's also possible nowadays I'm just doing like, mostly like custom made presses, so it's okay, but of course, it would be nice to grow the business
where are you sourcing materials for you for your custom pieces?
I won this prize from Yeah. So, I got those silk fabrics for 10,000 euros. So, I have huge amount of silk in mine. So now it's just the weird combination to combine silk and dirty undergarments, but it's also super fascinating material, like combined with the dirty underwear.
I also, like, visited in the recycle centre in Finland, and I was just interested in that, like, what kind of garments they put in the store, like, what they're gonna sell, and what kind of garments they just throw away. And it was exactly that, that, like, if there were stains or anything, they just throw them away immediately, because people don't gonna buy them. But like, then, like, children's out where, especially in Finland, because the weather is horrible all the time, and there is a need for them, and gives, like outweigh so then it doesn't matter if there is a stains or not, but like, it was also like, interesting ability then for that, it's partly about desirability for that garment.
Interviewed by Leelou Reboh